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Yours truly
My grandmother was the First Dressmaker at the renowned company Dooyes in Amsterdam, taking on students and trainees from the time she was just sixteen. Her remarkable talent was passed down to my mother, and as a boy, I would watch them both closely, learning the art of altering and creating clothing. At the same time, I found myself observing my grandfather and father, picking up practical skills in woodworking, pipefitting, and electrical work, all of which have proven useful throughout my life. My mother also had a deep passion for dance; she performed and taught traditional folk dancing with a demonstration group, travelling across the Netherlands and even around the world. Looking back, I’m certain these influences sparked my enduring love for streekdracht, the rich tradition of regional clothing.
Three types of people wear streekdracht:
- Reenactors, who wear antiques and additional items that have become unavailable, on special occasions.
- Fashionistas, who love a bit of history, wear just one or more streekdracht items with their contemporary clothes (Think of jeans combined with a traditional jacket or cap).
- Dracht-dragers, who make all their clothing from patterns and live the lifestyle. Some even choose traditional trades and jobs.
The enduring Amsterdam Streekdracht remains a symbol of tradition. In the Netherlands, traditional ethnic attire continues to hold significance. The male Streekdracht in Amsterdam features a distinctive ensemble: a black jacket with a standing collar, lacking lapels but adorned with the unique Pteryges shoulder design, complemented by a round-tipped white shirt. This ensemble includes a high-closing black waistcoat, black trousers equipped with permanent buttons for suspenders, and a pet or klak (cap) fitted with a leather brim and forehead band or cord secured by two silver dome buttons. The cord can also be used as a chin cord in windy weather.
The jacket, embellished with a single row of seven buttons, boasts a lining made of traditional North-Holland fabric. A five-button vest is paired with a watch chain, a watch, and an additional compass. The tie may range from a traditional handkerchief, a 19th-century crop-tie (a straight, unshaped cloth fastened with a bow knot), to a modern long tie or even a university or company tie.
The jacket has evolved from the older traditional doublet jacket, which was still worn until the first half of the 19th century.
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Special occasions might call for a hoge hoed (high hat). Footwear options include klompen (clogs) suitable for various settings, low shoes featuring silver buckles, or lace-up boots. Although modern thinner fabrics are now favoured due to indoor living with central heating, the core design and essence of the late 19th-century Dracht remain essentially unchanged.
THE 'WINTER' OUTFIT
Made of thick cotton. This is normally worn all year round, but not since the modern invention of a summer outfit.
 
 Klompen (clogs) have always been worn and are still the obvious choice for work outside or on the markets. Black is traditional. THE SUMMER OUTFIT A modern invention for when it's too warm. Made of cotton twill.   Black is traditional.   |
THE VEST
The 5 button vest (waistcoat) has a silver watchchain, fob, and watch.
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ZILVER
The 5 button vest (waistcoat) has a silver watch chain, fob, and watch.
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| Round or octagon-shaped traditional silver buttons like the Ruiterknopen (Equestrian-buttons) or another variant for jacket and vest. Polished tin buttons are also used. Often featuring a family weapon or crest. |
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LINING
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| Traditional North-Holland lining fabric. |
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| Traditional North-Holland lining fabric. |
Amsterdam deco lining picture
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FURTHER SHOES TO WEAR
Traditional klompen (clogs) are made everywhere in the Netherlands and Friesland, and are easy to obtain. Traditional Klompschoenen (clog-shoes) are, however, nowhere to be found these days. Except in Sheffield in England, made by Simon Brock.
Lace-up work boots/shoes came about due to the labour circumstances of the Industrial Revolution. For proper quality and tradition, you will have to look outside the Netherlands, sadly, with companies such as Red Wing USA.
 klompschoenen bruin (clog-shoe brown)  klompschoenen zwart (clog-shoes black) |
Lace-up work boots/shoes
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CAPS AND HATS
Pet / Klak / Cap
The Klak or Pet, a cap adorned with a leather brim and a forehead band secured by two silver dome buttons, carries a rich historical legacy. The concept of a brimmed hat for sun protection predates even the ancient Greeks' Petasos hat, often depicted on the god Hermes. Hats, traditionally featuring rims for sun shielding, coexisted alongside rimless options and soft caps. Soft caps, a favored choice in traditional attire, drew influence from the Frygische muts (Phrygian cap), worn by the Thracians and the deity Mithras.
In the Netherlands, rimless soft caps prevailed until the early 19th century. The origins of the cap with only a front brim remain somewhat unclear, possibly emerging in response to hats like the driekantige steek (tricorne hat) or tweekantige steek (bicorne hat) with folded rims, popular in the latter half of the 18th century. An older hat resembling a cap was the bekhoed (chapeau à bec or bycocket), worn by both men and women from the 13th to the 16th century, characterised by a wide brim turned up at the back and pointed at the front.
During the early 19th century, the klak, with its distinctive front brim, gained prominence in many regional dresses in the Netherlands, often seen in entirely black variations, each region and town boasting its unique design. Nonetheless, certain areas retained the popularity of rimmed and rimless hats, showcasing diverse hat traditions across the country.
Pictures caps!
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Kachelpijp / Klak / High Hat / Qlaque
The Hoge Hoed (High Hat), once worn by earlier generations, is now reserved for special occasions. Its origins trace back to England circa 1797, gradually integrating into traditional attire alongside existing headwear. Between 1800 and 1850, these hats were sleek and known as "kachelpijpen" (chimney pipes). In the Netherlands, they were crafted from woollen laken and molton (a wool-cotton blend), in addition to the customary silk. French and English silk imports, including ready-made silk hats, were also prevalent during this time.
These hats featured a ribbon, typically 2 to 3 cm wide, made of laken initially and later transitioning to silk. By approximately 1830, their height reached 20 cm, eventually standardising at 16 to 17 cm between 1837 and 1901. Around 1890, the design shifted to a tapered style with a larger crown, evolving further by 1920 to a height of 12 to 13 cm.
Presently, wool felt hats have taken precedence, marking a decline in silk hat manufacturing, with only a few surviving manufacturers specialising in silk hats. The Hoge Hoed, once a regular part of traditional attire, now retains its significance for select ceremonial moments in modern times.
TRADITIONAL HANKERCHIEFS
Zakdoek / Handkerchief / Neck-scarf
Before the stropdas (tie) became popular, the krop or scarf held sway, offering various tying styles. However, the Zakdoek, often forgotten by many, is now perceived as an accessory linked to rural areas. While predominantly associated with rural settings, it remains a viable accessory for Amsterdammers. It can be worn atop any attire or paired with a shirt, even in the absence of a tie. Options are: Boerenzakdoek Noord-Holland, Nautical Lines/Stripes, and Orange for special occasions.
Picture of a stack of zakdoeken!
Before the stropdas (tie) became popular, the krop or scarf held sway, offering various tying styles. However, the Zakdoek, often forgotten by many, is now perceived as an accessory linked to rural areas. While predominantly associated with rural settings, it remains a viable accessory for Amsterdammers. It can be worn atop any attire or paired with a shirt, even in the absence of a tie. Options are: Boerenzakdoek Noord-Holland, Nautical Lines/Stripes, and Orange for special occasions.
Picture of a stack of zakdoeken!
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TRADITIONAL BLADES
Zakmes / Pocket Knife
Traditionally, work and eating knives with silver handles were carried in trouser pockets. The widely favoured "Leeuwtjesmes" (Lions-knife), originating as early as the 17th century, boasted a distinct Dutch ornamentation featuring Acanthus leaves, shell motifs, scrolls, and often depicted a lion, sometimes accompanied by a shield. These knives bore Netherlands hallmarks on their handles and initially featured blades crafted in numerous traditional knife-making towns across the Netherlands and Belgium. Over time, these blades were frequently substituted with steel ones from Solingen in Germany, notably from the Herder brand.
Each region in the Netherlands (and Belgium) boasted its unique pocket knife design. The North-Holland and Friesland regions favoured the Leeuwtjesmes (Lions-knife), while the Zeeland coastal area, for instance, embraced the Paeremes (Horse knife). These knives showcased local craftsmanship and design diversity, adding a regional touch to a tradition deeply embedded in daily life.
Shady knife traditions
The subject of knives leads us into the obscure traditions of the Netherlands: a knife-fighting practice known as Bekkesnijden (Maul Cutting). This phenomenon's history has been chronicled in a book (Click here for more information).
In the 19th century, it was suppressed and relegated to an illegal underground activity. Over time, the term Bekkensnijder gradually transformed into a colloquialism, mistakenly associated with any incident involving knives, palm-blades, or sharpened coins used to cut someone's face. But rest assured, the presence of the Leeuwtjes mes (Lion-knife) in one's pocket today merely represents a nod to tradition. The era of Bekkesnijden has long passed into history, and the knife now symbolizes a cultural heritage rather than its former, darker connotations.
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| The Leeuwtjesmes (Lions-knife) with a silver hilt in the pocket |
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| The book tells the history of Bekkesnijders in The Netherlands |
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Nederlanders are famous for their knife traditions, as pictured in the book of the Scottish fencing master Donald McBain: The Expert Sword-Man's Companion (1728) |
ALTERNATIVE TRADITIONAL REGIONAL DRESS
Alternative Traditional Outfits popular in Amsterdam and the Netherlands
Crafting and upholding traditional Amsterdam Dracht entails considerable expense. Although, of course, Dracht-dragers make all their clothing from patterns.
Fisherman's Clothing
As a commonly pursued alternative, many opt for traditional fishermen's attire. This encompasses a conventional jacket, recognised globally as a pea coat, alongside the distinct local renditions of the schippers-trui (gansey).
For detailed insights into the schippers-trui (gansey), Stella Ruhe's publications offer comprehensive information on various designs and regional nuances. A stellar example illustrating the attire complementing the Durgerdam Gansey can be found within these publications, shedding light on the intricate details of this traditional wear.
Schippersjas (Peacoat) and regionale trui (regional Gansey)
Kiel
Regionale Trui - Regional Gansey
ALTERNATIVE WORK ATTIRE INSPIRED BY REGIONAL DRESS
Cargadoorspak / Carrier-Suit
Another sought-after, though not always budget-friendly, choice is a classic workingman's suit with the unique Netherland's Kletterjas / Cargadoorsjas. The distinctive Netherlands Kletterjas/Cargadoorsjas, is renowned for its association with kolendragers (coal carriers) and other cargadoors engaged in carrying or pulling work.
De Mof in Amsterdam provides a version of this attire, including the tailor-made Kletterjas/Klouterjas/Cargadoorsjas, ensuring authenticity and craftsmanship in preserving this unique aspect of the Netherlands' heritage attire.
The unique Netherlands
Kletterjas / Klouterjas / Cargadoorsjas
Molenaarspak - Millers Suit
Molenaarspak in a brown cotton corduroy version
Katoenen Werkpak - Cotton Work Suit
Made of thick cotton.
Katoen
Katoenen Corduroy Werkpak - Cotton Corduroy Work Suit
Made of cotton corduroy.
Corduroy
SO WHY ISN'T EVERYBODY WEARING OUR REGIONAL CLOTHING?
Universal work attire
The 1950s entrenched universal work attire.
Made of cotton. The core design is similar.
FEMALE DRACHT
We are planning to make the female dracht popular again, too. For this, a simplified modern version of the dress and headwear needs to be devised. More on this later.
If you are interested or able to help, please let us know.
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Related Museums, Events and Links:
klederdracht amsterdam
Folkloric Costume Amsterdam, Traditional Costume Amsterdam, Klederdracht Amsterdam, Streekdracht Amsterdam, Dracht Amsterdam, Traditional Dress Amsterdam, Traditional Costume Amsterdam,
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